Textile Lectures
University lecture courses in textile engineering by Muhammad Rizwan Zubair, rebuilt as interactive web pages. Each course page opens the Textile Lecture Companion: every worksheet is a live spreadsheet you can edit, every weave is drawn on point paper with its draft and lifting plan, and each lecture links to its original Google Doc or Sheet.
A complete university course on financial and managerial accounting applied to the textile industry: the accounting equation, financial statements, unit costing, cost-volume-profit analysis, job and process costing, activity-based costing, budgets and variances, and full product costing of yarn, grey fabric, dyed fabric and stitched garments. Every worksheet is an interactive spreadsheet. Open the Textile Costing course →
Lecture 01: Financial Accounting – Introduction — The accounting equation, recording transactions and the trial balance, followed step by step with Ahmed’s canteen.
Lecture 02: Financial Statements — Balance sheet, profit & loss account, the rules of debit and credit, the journal, the ledger and the trial balance.
Lecture 03: Current Assets & Liabilities — Debtors and creditors, deferrals and accruals, cost of goods sold, and why the way you value inventory changes the profit you report.
Lecture 04: Fixed Assets — What counts as the cost of a fixed asset, the concept of useful life, and three ways to depreciate — straight line, declining balance and double declining balance.
Lecture 05: Managerial Accounting – Introduction — Cost objects, cost accumulation and assignment, and the difference between direct and indirect cost.
Lecture 06: Unit Costing — Variable and fixed cost, total and unit cost, work in process, and the cost of goods sold for a manufacturer.
Lecture 07: Cost-Volume-Profit Relationship — Contribution margin, gross margin, the break-even point and sensitivity analysis.
Lecture 08: CVP in Textiles — Contribution margin and break-even applied to a spinning mill, a weaving shed and a dyeing plant.
Lecture 09: Costing Systems I — Job Costing — Assigning costs to a distinct job, batch or lot: the six steps, with a 10,000 m printing job.
Lecture 10: Costing Systems II — Process Costing — Averaging costs over masses of similar units, with and without work in process — the equivalent-units method at Sino-Pak Textiles.
Lecture 11: Advanced Costing Systems — Activity Based Costing — Why a volume-based allocation hides the true cost of small lots, and how tracing set-up cost per lot changes the picture.
Lecture 12: ABC Uses in Textiles — Set-up cost versus running cost in dyeing and printing, screen costs, colour wastage, and the true cost of short runs.
Lecture 13: Budgets & Variances — The budgeting cycle, static and flexible budgets, and Level 0 to Level 2 variance analysis for Webb Company.
Lecture 14: Budgeting in Textiles — Price & Efficiency Variances — Splitting Webb’s flexible-budget variances for materials and labour into a price part and an efficiency part.
Lecture 15: Review of Spinning Calculations — Count, ounces per spindle, bags per frame, cotton cost per lb and the adjusted cost of carded and combed yarn — the mid-term review.
Lecture 16: Simple Yarn Costing — Raw material, variable production and export costs, contribution per bag and per frame for an export yarn order.
Lecture 17: Optimal Yarn Mix — Allocating 46 frames among six counts to maximise contribution, within the limit of 780 bags of daily shipment.
Lecture 18: Review of Weaving Calculations I — Denier, fabric weight and the yarn cost per yard and per metre of grey fabric, including contraction, wastage and B-grade.
Lecture 19: Review of Weaving Calculations II — Loom production per day, B-grade adjustment, sizing and packing cost — the variable production cost of one metre of grey fabric.
Lecture 20: Simple Fabric Costing — Container loading, export costs per metre, sale proceeds and the contribution per metre and per loom per day for an export grey fabric.
Lecture 21: Simple Dyed Fabric Costing — From local grey price through wastage, dyeing charges and export costs to the US-dollar price a dyed fabric must fetch.
Lecture 22: Concept of Routes — Different process routes for the same dyed fabric cost very different amounts; building the per-metre cost of one process from machine depreciation and utilities.
Lecture 23: Plant Machinery Analysis — Capacity of each machine in a finishing plant: speed, set-up time, efficiency, double passes and the share of fabric that visits it.
Lecture 24: Final Dyeing Costing — Fixed cost, utilities and dyes per metre for every process, assembled for an order of a given size and shade depth, and summed by route.
Lecture 25: Stitching Costing I — Linear Rating — How many metres of fabric does one sheet, fitted sheet or pillow case consume? Cut lengths, hems, margins and wastage.
Lecture 26: Stitching Costing II — Order Costing — A made-up order from fabric consumption to profit: linear rating, B-grade and rag proceeds, accessories, labour, loading and allocated fixed cost.
The day-to-day calculations of a weaving engineer: yarn count systems (Ne, tex, denier, Nm), multiple counts, fabric weight in GSM and oz/yd², sett and warping, beam and cone calculations, reed count, cover factor, crimp, loom production, blended fabric composition, sizing cost, production planning and the feasibility of a weaving plant. Open the Weaving Calculations course →
Lecture 00: Course Outline – Weaving Calculations (TX-416) — What the course covers, how it is graded and where each lecture sits in the 15-week plan.
Lecture 01: Counting Systems — Direct and indirect yarn numbering — Ne, Nm, tex, dtex and denier — and the single constant that links them.
Lecture 02: Multiple Counts I – Yarns Together or Twisted — Resultant count and price of two or three yarns run together or plied, using the price of one hank.
Lecture 03: Multiple Counts II – Yarns in Proportion — When the yarns are not present in equal numbers: weighting by the number of threads of each count.
Lecture 04: Multiple Counts III – Proportions and Cost — Adding prices to the proportion method: the mean hank price and the price of the mixed yarn per 10 lb.
Lecture 05: Weight of Fabric — From construction to ounces per square yard and grams per square metre — the calculation every merchandiser asks for first.
Lecture 06: Sett Calculations – Beams and Warping Production — How many warper’s beams an order needs, how many ends go on each, and how long the warper will take.
Lecture 07: Beam Calculations — How much yarn fits on a beam — volume of the yarn annulus, packing density, weight, length and the fabric one beam will weave.
Lecture 08: Breakages and Sized Count — Expressing warp breaks per unit length so mills can be compared, and finding the count of yarn after sizing.
Lecture 09: Cone Size — Matching cone weight to creel capacity: how many bags of yarn one creel can use, and how small a cone a short sample warp needs.
Lecture 10: Warping Speed and Preparatory Capacity — From drum rpm to yards per shift, and two problems on how many warpers and sizers a loom shed needs.
Lecture 11: Reed Calculations — Reed count, dents per inch, the Stockport sett, ends per dent for each weave and the maximum width a creel pair can produce.
Lecture 12–13: Cover Factor I & II — How much of the cloth area the yarns actually cover, the Ne cover factor used in mills, and the airjet weavability limits with weave corrections.
Lecture 14: Fabric Production — Loom output per day from rpm, picks and efficiency; then warp and weft bags for an order, loom-days and daily yarn consumption.
Lecture 15–16: Crimp I & II – Peirce Geometry — Why yarns are longer than the cloth they make: the jammed plain weave with equal and unequal yarns, and the warp rib.
Lecture 17: Blended Fabrics – Fibre Composition — Percentage of each fibre in a fabric whose warp and weft are different blends, and the elastane content of a core-spun yarn.
Lecture 18: Sizing Cost Analysis — Relating sizing cost per kilogram to warp count across many articles, and forecasting the cost of a new count with linear and quadratic trends.
Lecture 19–21: Planning I, II & III – Orders, Changeovers and Yarn — The booking-and-shipping schedule: daily production per quality, days required, finish and dispatch dates, loom changeovers and the yarn each day of the plan consumes.
Lecture 22: Planning IV – Production Over Months — A day-by-day simulation: looms come on line one by one, stock builds up, and four shipments must be met on their dates.
Lecture 25: Set Size Planning — For every quality on the loom plan: beams per set, ends per beam, cone length, sets of warping required and bags of yarn to issue.
Lecture 27–28: Feasibility I & II – Costing a Weaving Plant — Variable cost and contribution per metre for local and export sale, then the investment, running cost and return of a 45-loom plant under three scenarios.
Woven fabric structures drawn on point paper: plain, twill and satin weaves and their derivatives, drafting and peg plans, hexadecimal weave notation, crepe, honeycomb, Bedford cord, piqué, huckaback and mock leno, stripes and checks, colour-and-weave effects, cover factor, crimp and double cloth. Open the Fabric Design course →
Lecture 01: Introduction to Weaving and Fabric Construction — The three motions of a loom, the common weaving defects, and how a fabric construction is written and read.
Lecture 02: Weight of Fabric — The quick GSM estimate and the exact calculation, shared with Weaving Calculations Lecture 5.
Lecture 03: Shedding Mechanisms and Point Paper — Tappet, dobby and jacquard shedding — what each can weave — and the point-paper convention for drawing a weave.
Lecture 04: Twill Weaves — Regular, irregular and steep twills, cavalry twill, and the pointed twill — all built from one rule.
Lecture 05: Satin and Sateen — Smooth, lustrous weaves built by distributing single interlacings with a move number.
Lecture 06: Rib and Hopsack Weaves — Plain-weave derivatives: extend the interlacing warp-way for a warp rib, weft-way for a weft rib, both ways for a hopsack.
Lecture 07: Twill Derivatives — Waved, herringbone, broken and curved twills — ways of turning or interrupting the twill line.
Lecture 08: Draft, Peg Plan and Denting — From design to loom: which heald carries each end, which healds lift on each pick, and how many ends go through each reed dent.
Lecture 10: Number Systems and Hexadecimal Weave Notation — Decimal, binary and hexadecimal, and the compact way of writing any weave as one hex number per pick.
Lecture 12: Fabric Analysis II – Yarn Diameter — Estimating the diameter of a yarn from its count and specific volume — the number behind every cover and crimp calculation.
Lecture 13: Crepe, Spot and Honeycomb Weaves — Weaves built on sateen bases — crepes from added marks, superimposed sateens, and the cellular honeycomb.
Lecture 14: Bedford Cord — Warp-way cords of plain or twill face separated by cutting lines, with stuffer ends for a rounder cord.
Lecture 16: Piqué — Weft-way or figured cords made with a stitching back warp: welt, loose-back and fast-back piqué, wadding picks and waved piqué.
Lecture 17: Stripe and Check Designs — Combining weaves side by side (stripes) and in both directions (checks); the 36-end 2/2 twill check and the warp/weft-face combination.
Lecture 19: Colour and Weave Effects — The same weave with coloured ends and picks: hairlines, hound’s tooth, bird’s eye — pattern made by colour order, not by weave.
Lecture 20: Cover Factor — Relative cover from diameter and spacing, cloth cover, and the Ne cover factor — the design view of Weaving Calculations 12.
Lecture 22: Spot and Figured Designs — Distributing small motifs over a ground: the six methods and the sateen-base distribution over 30 ends × 40 picks.
Lecture 23: Huckaback and Mock Leno — Open, absorbent weaves: huckaback for towels and mock leno imitating the gauze of a true leno.
Lecture 24: Fabric Analysis – Guidelines — How to take a sample apart: finding the face, the warp direction and the repeat before counting threads.
Lecture 25: Crimp — Peirce’s geometry of crimp, repeated here for the design course; the calculator lives in Weaving Calculations 15–16.
Lecture 26: Double Cloth — Two cloths woven at once: face and back warps and wefts, and the rule that keeps them apart.
An interactive weave design tool: draw a weave on point paper, see the simulated fabric, threading, tie-up and treadling, and export designs. Open the Weave Design Studio →
All three courses in one place, with an index of every original lecture file. Open the Lecture Companion →